Thursday, January 3, 2013

26 Jun - The Louvre is Closed on Tuesdays



Margie and I woke up early, dressed and, since we had made plans with Maureen the night  before to meet her at the louvre at noon, we let her sleep and were out the door with almost no noise. We got better at it each day with more practise!

We walked across the bridge to the metro and took it to the louvre stop. We found a little cafe and had breakfast. The washrooms were the thing that I remember most about this cafe. Like lots of places in Paris the washrooms are downstairs. While waiting my turn in the narrow hallway I spied an open door with more old stone stairs leading down to who knows where. There was  oddest sign on the wall inside, a person sitting down and looking quite asleep or dead.  The sign said Danger D'Asphyxie en cas de fuit.??
At that moment after I had taken a picture of the sign a waiter came up from wherever the staircase led and closed the door. I wonder how many dangerous basement rooms there are in old Paris, quite a few I would imagine. Margie and I both had a chuckle over it.
We found our way to the pyramids by 830 so that we would not be in line or at least at the front of the line It was a misty kind of morning and there were almost no people there at all. We went up to the guards inside the pyramid and found out that the Louvre was Closed on Tuesdays. The Louvre is closed on Tuesdays ???
It was by this time misting heavily. What to do? We decided to go to the Musee D'Orsay, just across the river.
Through the lion gate and across the river we sallied forth only to be accosted by gypsies picking up lost golden rings that were not lost. Margie and I both knew that the rings that were magically scooped up in the hands of the approaching person had not been there before the person scooped it up, as the cobblestone walkways makes one pay close attention to where one is putting ones feet for fear of twisting an ankle if one is not mindful.  'Had we lost a ring?' they would ask. 'No' we would answer. They did do it very well and if we had not being paying such close attention to the cobblestone walkways we might not have known that there was no ring before it was scooped up and presented with such a well rehearsed method of believability. I am not sure how much money they get as a reward for "finding" the lost ring from people who had never lost a ring but obviously enough that the gypsies felt it was a worthwhile endeavor and continued to do it to the millions of tourists who came to Paris.  The next time I go to Paris I might find out how much it costs to get back a ring I never lost. We made it to the Dorsee, which is on old train station redone into a museum, and through the other gypsies selling umbrellas.
We were pretty fast getting into the Musee Dorsee and it was great. Lots of paintings that we did not take any pictures of because we misunderstood the sign that said no flash photography. We thought it meant no photography, period. So much for universal sign comprehension. Yes the picture meant "No Flash" so we could have taken pictures of all the impressionists that Dennie really loves!
 There were the impressionists, lots of them. Vincent, Degas, lots of Degas, Monet, lots of Monet, Manet, Renoir, Pissarro. So many great paintings.  Religious, medieval, flowers, dead animals, country landscapes, modern. Need I go on. So many great statues. We could have stayed longer but had to go to the Louvre to meet Maureen at noon.
When we left I looked for something with Degas' little ballerina in a couple of their gift shops but they did not have anything with her on it. Lots of Monet but surprisingly, no Degas. I did of course buy some postcards.
When we left the Dorsee, as we were crossing the bridge back to the louvre, we were again accosted by gypsies doing the ring thing including a mother and her very young daughter. Train them young.

Met Maureen at the Louvre at noon with no problem. We walked out into the Park and Gardens next to the Louvre. The Tuilerie gardens are lovely really. Lots of statues and fountains and benches and little food stands with tables and chairs under the trees and waiters to take care of you just like in a Renoir painting.
A view on cities says 
"In the early 16th century the area was a clay quarry for tiles (tuilerie in French, hence the name). After the death of her husband Henri II in 1559, Catherine de Médicis had a Palace built at the tuileries, the Palais de Tuileries. The palace featured a large garden in Italian style, reminding her of her native Tuscany.
Between 1660 and 1664 the garden was 
redesigned in French formal style by André Le Nôtre, the celebrated gardener of the Sun King, best known for his design of the gardens at the Versailles Palace. Le Nôtre built a terrace along the riverbank and opened up a central axis which he extended three years later with the creation of the Champs-Elysees.
The Jardin des Tuileries was one of the first parks to open to the public and it quickly became a place to see and be seen. Even in the 18th century the park featured amenities such as cafes, kiosks, deck chairs and public toilets.
The Palais des Tuileries, situated near the Arc du Carrousel,
 was razed in 1871 by the Communards, opening up the view from the
 Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe. 
Most recently renovated in 1990, Le Nôtre's formal design of the Tuileries garden has been kept intact. At the same time the park was separated from car traffic. Many modern sculptures were added and in 1999 the Passerelle de Solférino (now the Passerelle Léopold-Sédar-Senghor), a footbridge across the Seine opened, linking the Tuileries with the  Musee D'Orsay.  
The Jardin des Tuileries is one of those parks where you can grab a chair for free and sit wherever you like.It also features several fountains, two large basins, numerous sculptures and two museums, the Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume and the Musée de l'Orangerie, which displays Claude Monet's large water lily paintings . Those two buildings are the only remains of the original Palais de Tuileries.. We wandered through the gardens and then after much confusion and looking for the right bus stop we caught the red bus next to the river abut three blocks away.  Of the several tour buses in Paris, the Red bus had the least number of stops of all of them but they are part of the Paris pass so we used them.


Passed many places including the Champs Eleysee, the Arc de Triomphe,  the Place do la Concorde, the opera, the Eiffle tower, the Musee d'Orsay and did not get off at any of them. Margie wanted to but we were tired. Our legs were starting to give out on us after the Mont Saint Michelle stairs and the Eiffel tower stairs and all the walking we had already done. It was nice to just ride around. but the next time I am in Paris.
We got off at Notre Dame and shopped our way home. There are lots of souvenir and gift shops on both the Ile de la Cite and Saint Louis. I saw a puppet shop with old fashioned marionettes. Margie picked up lots of things for all of her crew. Maureen and I picked up a few things too. Back at the apartment we showed each other what treasures we had bought. So much fun!
That evening we all went to the music concert  at the Saint Chappelle, Maureens favorite place in Paris. It is located at the police station or hall of justice (the Palais de la Cite I found out later) and it is beautiful. A small chapel compared with the large cathedrals we had been into, but every side of the upper walls of the chapel were stained glass. A really magical place. I loved this concert! It made me want to take up the violin! It was several violins and wonderful!
According to Wikipedia : it is a royal medieval Gothic chapel, located near the Palais de la Cite, on the Ile de la Cite in the heart of Paris. Begun some time after 1239 and consecrated on the 26th of April 1248, the Sainte-Chapelle is considered among the highest achievements of the Rayonnant period of gothic architecture. Its erection was commissioned by King Louis IX of France to house his collection of Passion Reilcs, including Christ's Crown of Thorns - one of the most important relics in medieval Christendom.With the Palais de la Cité, today called La Conciergerie, the Sainte-Chapelle is one of the surviving buildings of the Capetian royal palace on the Ile de la Cite. Although damaged during the French revolution, and restored in the 19th century, it retains one of the most extensive in-situ collections of 13th century stained glass anywhere in the world
The Parisian palatine chapel, built to house a reliquary, was itself like a precious reliquary turned inside out (with the richest decoration on the inside). Although the interior is dominated by the stained glass, every inch of the remaining wall surface and the vault was also richly coloured and decorated. Analysis of remaining paint fragments reveal that the original colours were much brighter than those favoured by the 19th century restorers and would have been closer to the colours of the stained glass. The quatrefoils of the dado arcade were painted with scenes of saints and martyrs and inset with painted and gilded glass, emulating Limoges enamels, while rich textiles hangings added to the richness of the interior. Above the dado level, mounted on the clustered shafts that separate the great windows, are 12 larger-than-life-sized sculpted stone figures representing the 12 Apostles (six of these are replicas - the damaged originals are now in the Musée du Moyen Age). Each carries a disk marked with the consecration crosses that were traditionally marked on the pillars of a church at its consecration. Niches on the north and south sides of the chapel are the private oratories of the king and of his mother, Blanch of Castile.


Despite some damage the windows display a clear iconographical programme. The three windows of the eastern apse illustrate the New Testament, featuring scenes of The Passion (centre) with the Infancy of Christ (left) and the Life of John the Evangelist (right). By contrast, the windows of the nave are dominated by Old Testament exemplars of ideal kingship/queenship in an obvious nod to their royal patrons. The cycle starts at the western bay of the north wall with scenes from the Book of Genesis (heavily restored). The next ten windows of the nave follow clockwise with scenes from Exodus, Joseph, Numbers/Leviticus, Joshua/Deuteronomy, Judges, (moving to the south wall) Jeremiah/Tobias, Judith/Job, Esther, David and the Book of Kings. 
The final window, occupying the westernmost bay of the south wall brings this narrative of sacral kingship right up to date with a series of scenes showing the rediscovery of Christ's relics, the miracles they performed, and their relocation to Paris in the hands of King Louis himself. The most famous features of the chapel, among the finest of their type in the world, are the great Stained glass windows, for whose benefit the stone wall surface is reduced to little more than a delicate framework. Fifteen huge mid-13th century windows fill the nave and apse, while a large rose window with Flamboyant tracery (added to the upper chapel c.1490) dominates the western wall.
The Parisian scholastic Jean de Jandun praised the building as one of Paris's most beautiful structures in his "Tractatus de laudibus Parisius" (1323), citing "that most beautiful of chapels, the chapel of the king, most decently situated within the walls of the kings house."

After Sainte-Chapelle we walked over to the Apartment via Notre Dame, chatting about the concert and Sainte-Chapelle. We browsed in the shops along the way.
We made it back to the apartment by 10 and when we went to bed there were lights on the ceiling flickering different colours as the tour boats on the river went by.  How nice, lights on the ceiling tofall asleep to which happened very quickly.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

The bridges of Paris day by day.

Paris has 37 bridges across the Seine, of which 3 are pedestrian only and 2 are rail bridges. Three link Ile Saint Louis to the rest of Paris, 8 do the same for Ile de la cite and one links the 2 islands to each other. A list follows, from upstream of the city to downstream:

Pont de la Pont de Tolbiac - never saw it

Passerelle Simone-de-Beauvoir (pedestrian),  - never saw it



Pont de Bercy (made up of a railway bridge carrying the Line 6 of the Paris Metro and another stage for road traffic) ; - saw it as a bridge in the distance from other bridges.


Pont Charles-de-Gaulle (1996) - saw this bridge in the distance when we,  Maureen and I, were walking to the apartment on the 23rd Saturday morning and from other bridges and from the boat tours.
Viaduc D'Austerlitz (railway bridge used for Line 5 of the métro), directly followed on the Rive Droite by the viaduc du quai de la Rapee, - saw this bridge when we, Maureen and I, were walking to the apartment on the 23rd saturday morning and from other bridges and from the boat tours

Pont d'Austerlitz - did see this bridge when we, Maureen and I, were walking to the apartment on the 23rd, saturday morning, and again on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week.

Pont de Sully constructed 1875-1876 made of cast iron (crosses the eastern corner of Île Saint-Louis from one bank of the seine to the other) - used this one on the morning of  the 28 when I went for a walk by myself to the rive droit....and saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week.

Pont de la Tournelle a reinforced concrete bridge which has a large statue of St Genevieve (between the Rive Gauche and the Île Saint-Louis)-  Margie and I did this one on Saturday morning of the 24th on our way to find the Bateau bus place.... and saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week.


Pont Marie
 constructed 1614-1635 masonry  one of the three oldest bridges in Paris (between Île Saint-Louis and the rive droite) - We used this one on the Friday the 23 to go shopping and I used this one on the morning of the 28th when I went for a walk early by myself.   This was the bridge that was closest to our apartment.... and we saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week.

Pont Louis-Phillipe originally a suspension bridge in 1825 it was replaced by a masonry bridge in 1862 (between Île Saint-Louis and the rive droite) On Tuesday and Wednesday Margie, Maureen and  and I used this one to go to the Louvre 
Pont Saint-Louis  current foot bridge 1969-1970 replaced many times (pedestrian only between Île de la Cité and the Île Saint-Louis) - We used this bridge alot when we were going to and from the Cathedral, Saint Chappelle and the Ile de la Cite. There were lots of musicians and buskers on this one almost every evening.

Pont de l'Archeveche  the narrowest bridge across the siene and one covered in locks. (between the rive gauche and Île de la Cité) saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week.  used this one on the night we had dinner on the lovely boat on the river.
Pont au Double was a toll bridge in 1625 of masonry; rebuilt in 1884, sagged in 1847 so was rebuilt again in 1882 made of cast iron covered in copper (between the rive gauche and Île de la Cité) Walked under this bridge on way to dinner on boat and saw it again while walking around Notre dame and from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week.

Pont d'Arcole 1854 metal (between Île de la Cité and the rive droite) I am sure we went on this bridge I am just not sure when. Saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week. 

Petit Pont Possible the earliest bridge site in paris rebuilt many times of wood. in 1186 rebuilt of stone and restored eleven times 1852 current masonry bridge. (between the rive gauche and Île de la Cité) I think we used this bridge the night of our dinner going back over to the cathedral square. Saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week

Pont Notre-Dame Oldest historic crossing with many wooden bridges prior to 1512 rebuilt of masonry and now combined steel and masonry. (between the Île de la Cité and the rive droite) Saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week

Pont Saint Michel since 1407 many wooden bridges on site; in 1897 masonry, a large N in medallions on the bridge (between the Rive Gauche and the Île de la Cité) We saw this one  on the 24th June coming back from after not finding the bateau bus.

Pont au Change 1441 King Louis VII ordered all of the exchanges into the same area on and around this bridge. (between the Île de la Cité and the Rive Droite)

Pont Neuf -The Oldest bridge in Paris May 31 1578-1607 the ? something done by Catherine de Medicis. there is a statue of Henry IV (crossing the west corner of the Île de la Cité, Paris's oldest bridge, built between 1578 and 1607) We went on this one on the 24th  on our way back from looking for the bateau bus 


Passerelle des Arts 1803 and rebuilt in 1882 of metal with a wood walkway (pedestrian) - Margie and I crossed this one Sunday Morning and I met two very drunk young men sitting on a bench in the middle of the bridge. when I said what a lovely view one of the young men said 'it is a f***ing lovely panorama' ... very funny. we saw it again from the river on the boat cruise and bateau bus excursions we took throughout the week.
Pont du Carrousel 1834 and rebuilt in 1935 (as seen from the Passerelle ses Arts) - I belive that this is the one at the end of the Musee Dorsay. It has 4 statues on it depicting 4 we went under this one for sure. 
Pont Royal - 1685 we did this one
Passerelle Leopold-Sedar-Senghor (1999) a metal footbridge since 1859 and rebuilt in 1993 (pedestrian, formerly the Passerelle de Solférino, renamed in 2006) it has 2 arcs which allow for the passage of people to different levels on each side of the river.
Pont de la concorde - I think we did this one on the red bus
Pont Alexandre III -  1900 for the Worlds Fair very decorated and with 4 Golden statues I think we did this one on the red bus and under by boat.
Pont des Invalides -
 Pont de l'Alma
 Passerelle Debilly (pedestrian) - 
 Pont d'lena
 Pont de Bir-Hakeim (crossing the Île aux Cygnes, comprising one stage with a railway bridge carrying Line 6 of the Paris Metro and another for road traffic) saw this one from the boat very cool with a great green statue of a guy on a horse
Pont Rouelle (rail viaduct for line C of the RER crossing the ile aux Cygnes) we may have seen this one from the RER to Vesailles

Pont de Grenelle (crossing the Île aux Cygnes) we may have seen this one on Monday from the bus for Mont St Michelle and on friday from the RER to Vesailles

Pont Mirabeau - we saw this one on Monday from the tour bus from Mont St Michele on the way back after a five hour bus ride  ...It was green. 

Pont du Garigliano - we may have seen this one from the  bus on Monday for Mont St Michelle and on friday on the RER to Vesailles

Pont aval (used by the boulevard périphérique, at the river's exit from the city - we may have seen this one on Monday on the bus to Mont St Michelle and on Friday from the RER to Vesailles

25 Jun - It is Monday so this must be Mont St Michelle




Woke at 6 and was ready by 6:10. Phoned a cab and after a bit of trouble  making myself understood, (which I found out later I had not) I made a little lunch breakfast to take on the bus. I  left by 6:40 and waited outside, but there was no cab. At 6:45 no cab. I was starting to worry as we were supposed to be at the place by 7 and although it wasn't that far, it was too far to walk and get there on time.
Margie and Maureen were out by 650 but still no cab. A cab driver who was just finished for the night and happened to live on our street was surprised that our cab had not shown up but pointed us in the right direction to find a cab. With great relief we caught a cab in Paris! The traffic was basically not there at that hour and so made it to the place in plenty of time. It is definitely interesting try to make yourself understood in a foreign language. Thank God for Dennie. She was not afraid to try her French. Every time I wanted to ask something I totally seemed to forget all my high school french!

On to the bus and at 7:15 we were off. The weather was nice, and we passed the ET with the sun just starting to kiss the top. It certainly looked different than the night before, for one thing we could see it.
The traffic got very slow going out of Paris and did not pick up any speed until we passed a traffic accident. the price of gas is 1.68E a liter! I loved the signs. Hre we have pictures of deer There they had pictures of wild boars!
It was getting cloudier as the trip progressed. By Rowen it was 8:25 am. Maureen had settled in and was asleep again but Margie and I were wide awake with our cameras "At the ready". A toll booth at Louviers at 843; sunshine at 844; farms, fields, cows, rivers and streams.
At 910 we stopped for 30 minutes at a truck stop. There were clean washrooms. I had an apple turnover. we found out that we were only half way to Mont St Michelle. the brochure had said a few hours out of Paris.  I always thought a few was three or less. at 9:40 on the road again into sunnier Normandy. Pretty, pretty country.
The tour guide was a Young girl Aurora who gave talks about Mont St Michelle on our way there. Sometimes with each person and sometimes on the audio system.



Mont-Saint-Michel has been the subject of traditional, but nowadays good-humoured, rivalry between Normans and Bretons.  
(kind of like Edmonton and Calgary) Bretons claim that since the Couesnon River marks the traditional boundary between Normandy and Brittany, it is only because the river has altered its course over the centuries that the mount is on the Norman side of the border. This legend amuses the area's inhabitants, who state that the border is not located on the Couesnon river itself but on the mainland at 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) in the west, at the foot of the solid mass of Saint-Brelade.





 We passed poppy fields and all along the road side was broom, foxglove, daisies and goldenrod. By 1130 we were into rolling hills with cows in fields divided by trees.  More toll booths. The highway is a nice highway, divided and with multiple lanes. The bus was comfortable enough although there was no washroom.
Aurora continued:


Religious Hermits lived on the island since the 4th century. 


 the island was called "monte tombe", 
before the construction of the first monastic establishment in the 8th century. According to legend, the Archangel Michael appeared to St Aubert, bishop of Avranches,  in 708 in a dream and instructed him to build a church on the rocky islet. Aubert repeatedly ignored the angel's instruction, until Michael burned a hole in the bishop's skull with his finger. 

We passed more rivers and country houses, farms and gardens , small villages and turnoffs to larger centers. At 12 noonish we rolled through a small very spread out town with narrow roads on a very flat  area of a large bay and then we saw Mont st michelle. (I'm a little fuzzy about how 5 hours could be misconstrued and described as a few hours drive in the descriptor on the web site?). They don't want to scare people off!
Mont St Michelle is very impressive even from a distance. By the time we got to the parking lot, parked, walked the quarter mile (where we passed a washroom and so used that as there was no washroom on the bus! and got in heck for doing that) to the transfer bus which took us across the dyke road to our drop off pik up point, and then continued on walking another quarter mile to the entrance gate it was 1245.
After some very clear instructions on what time to be back at the main gate to go home, we followed Aurora up a very steep narrow lane-way lined with small shops and crowded with people. I made this sound easier that it was. The narrow lane was crowded with tall people.
Aurora is short and so to enable us to see her she held a pop bottle over her head but we still could not see her very well as she walked very fast snd so was always ahead of us and having to wait, not just for us either, but most of the people in the tour. She was very hard to keep up with! and as Dennie said hard to see over all the people in front of us.
We made it to our restaurant and enjoyed a very good meal that we had pre-booked. If we had known that we were only going to have two and a half hours to see everything, we would not have done this, we would have just grabbed a sandwich on the go from one of the numerous small shops on the island.  It was a very unique omelet-all frothy and extremely delicious-but also quite expensive. But live and learn, I guess.
Needless to say, our lunch of omelets was very good in a very cool restaurant that must have been 500 years old by the feel of the tilt to the floor and the way the windows opened. we had a great view of the tidal flats and we chatted about that. I tried to take some photos of some poppy fields across the bay but they were just fuzzy red lines in the photos.


The tides in the area change quickly, and have been described by Victor Hugo as "à la vitesse d'un cheval au galop" or "as swiftly as a galloping horse".  
The tides can vary greatly, at roughly 14 metres (46 ft) between high and low water marks. Popularly nicknamed "St. Michael in peril of the sea" by medieval pilgrims making their way across the flats, the mount can still pose dangers for visitors who avoid the causeway and attempt the hazardous walk across the sands from the neighbouring coast. 
We discussed the reasoning behind the school groups out on the sands while we were eating lunch. Possibly secretly hoping to see the tide come in like a galloping horse and chase the running children and teachers up the beach.




After our excellent large lunch of foamed omelets we waddled up the narrow lane-way. We were surprised that we were only about halfway to the abbey. Maureen stopped to browse through some shops and so Margie and I went on. At the top of the laneway is a very long staircase. 
Needless to say we stopped a few times to "take pictures". After the long open staircase was another covered staircase. Oh goody! And my calves were still sore from trying to climb the Eiffel tower the night before! But we made it with a few pit stops.
Maureen caught up at the entrance to the abbey but had misplaced her ticket, which Aurora had told us not to lose when she gave them to us, so Maureen had to buy another ticket. 
The whole Mont St Michelle is so Cool!  
after the entrance check in hallway we went up another staircase! to the outside again.
Around a long narrow path of high walls and more stairs built right into/onto the rock of the island. At the top of this staircase is a large plaza courtyard with a magnificent view of the bay and surrounding countryside on two sides and the church on another.
Wikipedia says that Mont Saint Michelle (Saint Michael's Mount) is a rocky tidal island in Normandy, France. It is located approximately one kilometre (just over half a mile) off the country's north-western coast, at the mouth of the Couesnon River near Avranches. The population of the island is 44, as of 2009. 

The church is very large and beautiful with pale windows. I found out that once they had very bright colours but time had faded them to pale pale greens and pinks. 
The island has held strategic fortifications since ancient times, and since the 8th century AD been the seat of the monastery from which it draws its name. The Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay are part of the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.
 More than 3,000,000 people visit it each year. (A lot of them on the same day as we were there)
Mont Saint-Michel was previously connected to the mainland via a  tidal causeway, i.e. a trackway covered at High tide and revealed at low tide. This connection has been altered over the centuries. The coastal flats have been diked off and drained to create pasture, thus the distance between the shore and the south coast of Mont-Saint-Michel has decreased, and the river has been canalised,  reducing the flow of water and thereby encouraging a silting-up of the bay. In 1879, the tidal causeway was converted into a raised or dry causeway.  This prevented the tide from scouring the silt around the mount. 



In 2006, the French prime minister and regional authorities announced a €164 million project (Projet Mont-Saint-Michel) to build a hydraulic dam using the waters of the river and of tides to help remove the accumulated silt deposited by the rising tides, and to make Mont-Saint-Michel an island again. It was projected to be completed by 2015.
The construction of the dam began in 2009 and is now complete. The project also included the removal of the causeway and its visitors car-park.( we saw lots of equipment working on that part of the project) It will be replaced by a light bridge, allowing the waters to flow freely around the island, which will improve the efficiency of the now operational dam, and a replacement car-park on the mainland. (that is were we parked) Visitors will use small shuttles  (Yup we did that too but still on the causeway not the new bridge) to cross the future bridge which will still be open to pedestrians and unmotorised vehicles.
After the Church we followed other people through doors and into and through chambers and halls. At some point Maureen got separated from us. We found ourselves in the large Cloister which was stunning.  with a lovely garden in the center.
Mont-Saint-Michel was used in the 6th and 7th centuries as an Amoricans stronghold of Gallo-Roman culture and power, until it was ransacked by the Franks, (Hence the French and France) thus ending the trans-channel culture that had stood since the departure of the Romans in AD 460. 


The mount gained strategic significance in 933 when William "Long Sword", William 1 Duke of Normandy, annexed the Cotentin Peninsula, definitively placing the mount in  Normandy. It is depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry (I have to Find out where that is so I can see it) which commemorates the 1066 Norman Conquest of England. Harold Earl of Wessex is pictured on the tapestry rescuing two Norman knights from the quicksand  in the tidal flats during a battle with Conan II, Duke of Brittany.  Norman Ducal patronage financed the spectacular Norman architecture of the abbey in subsequent centuries.






 1067, the monastery of Mont-Saint-Michel gave its support to duke William of Normandy in his claim to the throne of England. It was rewarded with properties and grounds on the English side of the Channel, including a small island off the southwestern coast of  Cornwall which was modeled after the Mount and became a Norman priory named St Michael's Mount  of Penzance.
After the cloister came more passageways, halls both large and small and kitchens and rooms. It was a maze really. During the Hundred Years War, the English  made repeated assaults on the island, but were unable to seize it due to the abbey's improved fortifications. Les Michelettes – two wrought-iron Bombards  left by the English in their failed 1423–24 siege of Mont-Saint-Michel – are still displayed near the outer defense wall.
We passed a fresco of St Michael  poking the abbot in the forehead. Quite funny really except here was this magnificent abbey on the Island and 1200 years old and very popular still, so obviously St Michael was on to something. 
When Louis XI of France founded the Order of Saint Michael in 1469, he intended that the abbey church of Mont Saint-Michel be the chapel for the Order, but because of its great distance from Paris, his intention could never be realized.
The wealth and influence of the abbey extended to many daughter foundations, including St Michaels Mount in Cornwall. However, its popularity and prestige as a centre of pilgrimage waned with the Reformation, and by the time of the French Revolution there were scarcely any monks in residence. 
The abbey was closed and converted into a prison, initially to hold clerical opponents of the republican régime. High-profile political prisoners followed, but by 1836, influential figures – including Victor Hugo – had launched a campaign to restore what was seen as a national architectural treasure. The prison was finally closed in 1863, and the mount was declared a historic monument in 1874. The Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay were added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979, and it was listed with criteria such as cultural, historical, and architectural significance, as well as human-created and natural beauty.
The Italian architect William de Volpiano, who had built the Abbey of Fecamp in Normandy, was chosen as building contractor by Richard II of Normandy in the 11th century. He designed the Romanesque  church of the abbey, daringly placing the transept crossing at the top of the mount. Many underground crypts and chapels had to be built to compensate for this weight; these formed the basis for the supportive upward structure that can be seen today. Today Mont-Saint-Michel is seen as a Romanesque style church. 
Robert de Thorigny, a great supporter of Henry II of England (who was also Duke of Normandy), reinforced the structure of the buildings and built the main façade of the church in the 12th century. In 1204 the Breton Guy de Thouars, allied to the King of France, undertook the siege of the Mount. 
Did I mention it was like a maze, a rabbit warren. We went outside and then inside, up stairs , downstairs, past windows looking in and windows looking out. It really was. We didn't see Maureen until the end and she didn't see half of the same things that we did. I really did love Mont St Michel though and was so glad that Maureen had suggested it.

After having set fire to the village and having massacred the population, he was obliged to beat a retreat under the powerful walls of the abbey. Unfortunately, the fire which he himself lit extended to the buildings, and the roofs fell prey to the flames. Horrified by the cruelty and the exactions of his Breton ally, Philip Augustus offered Abbot Jourdain  a grant for the construction of a new Gothic-style architectural set which included the addition of the refectory and cloister.
Charles the VI is credited with adding major fortifications to the abbey-mount, building towers, successive courtyards and strengthening the ramparts.
There were some very cool halls with hanging gothic letters or symbols. there was the large wooden wheel used to bring stores up to the abbey. there were gardens and narrow passages and low ceilings and steep round staircases.
The structural composition of the town examplifies the feudal society that constructed it. On top God, the church and monastery, below this the Great Halls, then stores and housing, and at the bottom, outside the walls fishermen and farmers housing. all in a spiral lane-way on a hill. Very cool place.
Margie and I shopped our way down to the bottom of the road/lane in about 30 minutes. I bought some towels and lace and postcards. I found a post office too and picked up some stamps. We made it down to the gate about 330, ten minutes early for our appointed meeting time, so used the washrooms which we had to pay .40E  to use but were actually clean. Maureen was not there. Maureen was late. I bought postcards/tea towels-touristy things-many little gifts to bring    to the people back home.
We waited for a bit and then we went to the bus stop as we walk slower than some of the group. Aurora was beside herself trying to get everyone rounded up.  Maureen showed up about twenty minutes later saying that she was there at the gate, but we never saw her. Oh well, we were on our way back to Paris. We asked her where she got to and she asked us where we got to. We followed the other people and never went back through any door that we had been thorough already. She went back out into the courtyard of the church and lost us. 
We saw the effects of the polderisation and occasional flooding that created salt marsh meadows that were filled with grazing sheep. The well-flavoured meat that results from the diet of the sheep in the pré salé (salt meadow) makes agneau do pre-sale (salt meadow lamb), a local specialty that may be found on the menus of restaurants that depend on income from the many visitors to the mount.  (Not from me) there was also alot of ewes cheese which was very tasty. (the cheese was very tasty)
By the time we all got back to the bus via: the shuttle bus and walking to the very far away parking lot (why doesn't the shuttle bus take us all the way to the parking lot), it was 430, about 30 minutes late and Aurora was concerned about our driver. According to the labour laws the driver could only drive for 10 hours or something and we would have to change drivers at the rest stop that we stopped at on the way to Mont St Michelle. It started raining again.
We did not have a long break going back as we wanted to get back to Paris before it got too late.
On the way back Maureen told us where she went and we told her where we went. She missed most of the labyrinth of the island, all the little gardens and chapels and great halls.  I gave Maureen her lace bookmark and had a nap for about 2 hours.  at 630 I had a little snack of olives, tomatoes, cheese OJ and water. read some of my book on MSM. they traded drivers at the road stop cafe and we we continued on. I wrote out postcards to Pat, Diane and Maureen at work, Alex and Lehanna, Sharon Jo, and Kelly. Need to send 8 more out to get everyone at least one postcard from this trip. 
On the way into Paris we went through the tunnel that Princess Diana was killed in. How sad is that. 
we got back to Paris after 9. Walking back we decide to go to the Canadian Club and have a beer. It was crowded with young people. then we walked home across the musicians bridge. Lots of musicians were out and a gentleman making giant bubbles. Yes, that was very different. Had a Coors Light in Paris at the Canadian bar! The acts on the bridge were great! Especially the guy playing "La Vie en Rose" on the accordian. So French!

before going back to the apartment, we stopped for a creme brule


(nummy!!)
 at the little corner restaurant  that we ate our first meal in paris at. It had stopped raining before we got into Paris and the evening was warm and very pleasant. we were happy and recalling our time in St Mont Michelle, not the 10 hours on the bus that day, but the 3 hours we spent there. Amazing place would go back anytime but I think I would go and spend the night in the little town. My feet were sore and I was tired but it was all so exciting and different that it was great!
WTuesday we are supposed to go to the louvre. so made plans to meet Maureen at noon in front of the louvre and went to bed.