29 June - Versailles

Up at 6  and went in search of batteries for Margies camera.

It was a cool grey morning, the clouds holding the promise of rain. I considered taking my umbrella and thought I would be brave. After searching on our island I went across the Ile de la Cite to the right bank? to see if I could find a shop open. There were quite streets and parks and lots of closed shops.

As I wandered the streets of Paris I came upon St Germain church. It was open so I went in and after quietly checking the place out, lit a candle and said a prayer.

I left the church and almost right across the street was an open shop and I found battieries for Margie's camera. So much for the power of prayer.

By 8 am I was back at apartment and Margie and Maureen were both up and getting ready. A quick preakfast and we were on our way to Versailles!

We got to the RER stop by 830 and waited but there did not seem to be very many people around. Maureen checked out the area and discovered that there was another RER stop. We were at the wrong RER stop. So much for research. I think they need more signage.

The proper stop was busy with an attendant to keep people organized. I asked him in terrible french, which train to catch to Versailles. He was very nice and said to wait and at 930  we were on the RERC on our way to Versailles. We left paris and went through lots of little towns, or suburbs, occasionally stopping and letting people on and off. We even had musicians come on and play  for us for a small donation of course but why not, it was fun.

We arrived at 1015 in the town of Versailles and after consulting a map at the station found our way to the Palace of Versailles. about a twenty minute walk from the station.
By 1030 we were in the long line in the courtyard to the chateau. When the tourist books tell you to get there early. get there early. Also we found out later that it was one of the busiest days of the year for the chateau as it was a special day for schools to come. that explained all the young people that were there.

By 1130  we were in the Chateaux. Wiki says "The earliest mention of the name of Versailles is in a document dated 1038, relating to the village of Versailles. In 1575, the seigneury of Versailles was bought by Albert de Gondi, a naturalized Florentine, who invited Louis XIII on several hunting trips in the forests surrounding Versailles. Pleased with the location, Louis ordered the construction of a hunting lodge in 1624. 

Eight years later, Louis obtained the seigneury of Versailles from the Gondi family and began to make enlargements to the château. This structure would become the core of the new palace. Louis XIII's successor, Louis XIV, had it expanded into one of the largest palaces in the world. Following the Treaties of Nijimegen  in 1678, he began to gradually move the court to Versailles. The court was officially established there on 6 May 1682.

After the disgrace of  Nicolas Fouquet in 1661, Louis confiscated Fouquet’s estate and employed the talents of Le Vau, Le Nôtre, and Le Brun, who all had worked on Fouquet’s grand château Vaux-le-Vicomte, for his building campaigns at Versailles and elsewhere. For Versailles, there were four distinct building campaigns.

The first building campaign (1664–1668) commenced with the Plaisirs de I''Ile enchantee  (Pleasures of the Enchanted Island) of 1664, a Fete that was held between 7 and 13 May 1664. The first building campaign (1664–1668) involved alterations in the château and gardens to accommodate the 600 guests invited to the party. (Nolhac, 1899, 1901; Marie, 1968; Verlet, 1985)

The second building campaign (1669–1672) was inaugurated with the signing of the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, which ended the War of Devolution. During this campaign, the château began to assume some of the appearance that it has today. The most important modification of the château was Le Vau’s envelope of Louis XIII’s hunting lodge. 

(Nolhac, 1901; Marie, 1972; Verlet, 1985) Significant to the design and construction of the grands appartementsis that the rooms of both apartments are of the same configuration and dimensions – a hitherto unprecedented feature in French palace design. 

Both the grand appartement du roi and the grand appartement de la reine formed a suite of seven enfilade rooms. The decoration of the rooms, which was conducted under Le Brun's direction, depicted the "heroic actions of the king" and were represented in allegorical form by the actions of historical figures from the antique past (Alexander the Great, Augustus, Cyrus, etc.). (Berger, 1986; Félibien, 1674; Verlet, 1985) ( As in Napoleons Apartments at the Louvre, there was an Art show with different odd pieces in different spots throughout the chateau these 6 foot high heels were made out of pots and pans)

With the signing of the Treaty of Nijmegen  in 1678, which ended the Dutch War, the third building campaign at Versailles began (1678–1684). Under the direction of the architect, Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the Palace of Versailles acquired much of the look that it has today. 

In addition to the Hall of Mirrors, Hardouin-Mansart designed the north and south wings and the Orangerie. Le Brun was occupied not only with the interior decoration of the new additions of the palace, but also collaborated with Le Nôtre's in landscaping the palace gardens (Berger, 1985; Thompson, 2006; Verlet, 1985). (Another of the odd Art pieces, a crochetted hanging balloon thingy)

Soon after the defeat of the War of the League of Augsburg (1688–1697), Louis XIV undertook his last building campaign at Versailles. The fourth building campaign (1699–1710) concentrated almost exclusively on construction of the royal chapel designed by Hardouin-Mansart and finished by Robert de Cotte. 

There were also some modifications in the Appartement du roi, namely the construction of the Salon de l'OEil de Boeuf and the King's Bedchamber. With the completion of the chapel in 1710, virtually all construction at Versailles ceased; building would not be resumed at Versailles until some twenty one years later during the reign of Louis XV (Nolhac, 1911; Marie, 1976, 1984; Verlet, 1985).

During the reign of Louis XV, Versailles underwent transformation, but not on the scale that had been seen during the reign of Louis XIV. The first project in 1722 was the completion of the Salon d'Hercule. Significant among Louis XV’s contributions to Versailles were the petit appartement du roi; 

the appartements de Mesdames, the appartement du dauphin, and the appartement de la dauphine on the ground floor; and the two private apartments of Louis XV – petit appartement du roi au deuxième étage (later transformed into the appartement de Madame du Barry) and the petit appartement du roi au troisième étage – on the second and third floors of the palace.

 At 130 we had lunch in the chateau and then went to the gift shop spent way to much money on souvenirs. we then went to catch the little train to Marie Antoinette's farm. We thought it would give us a tour of the gardens but it did not. it also only stopped at two other locations. the Petit Trianon and Marie Antoinette's farm. if we had had the time we could have seen more but c'est la vie!

The crowning achievements of Louis XV’s reign were the construction of the Opera and the Petit Trianon  (Verlet, 1985). Equally significant was the destruction of the Escalier des Ambassadeurs (Ambassadors' Stair), the only fitting approach to the State Apartments, which Louis XV undertook to make way for apartments for his daughters.

The fountains were not turned on on fridays and we did not get to see them all, but what we saw was splendid. 
The Gardens  remained largely unchanged from the time of Louis XIV; the completion of the Bassin de Neptune between 1738 and 1741 was the only important legacy Louis XV made to the gardens (Marie 1984; Thompson, 2006; Verlet 1985). 

Towards the end of his reign, Louis XV, under the advice of Ange-Jacques Gabriel, began to remodel the courtyard facades of the palace. With the objective revetting the entrance of the palace with classical facades, Louis XV began a project that was continued during the reign of Louis XVI, but which did not see completion until the 20th century (Verlet, 1985).
Versailles is so worth seeing but again go and spend the night at Versailles and get the whole day in to see everything.

We caught the 430 RER back to paris with no problem. There was a group of Korean students from the States sitting by us and we traded money. It was fun.

At 515 we were at the Eiffel Tower and we sat at the garden under the tower for a bit. I sprinkled Mom and Dad's ashes by the koi pond at the base of the tower, out of the wind and sun and with a nice view of the park.

6:00  Parisienne Boat for dinner, which was excellent. I must applaud them on their vegetarian menu. A selection of one item, boiled vegetables in butter with some cheese sprinkled on it. but we did get wine included with the meal. the next time I go to Paris I am going to go to a real restaurant and see if they cook more than boiled vegetables for vegetarians. On the whole the cruise was very nice and we did have a Dali moment from the curved windows of the boat reflecting the trees in a very odd way. Dali's inspiration?

By 830 we were at the Apartment organizing Margie had brought the expandable suitcase which was a good thing so we packed and tidied and got ready for our departure the next day. while Maureen went to a concert at Saint Chapelle, we went shopping one more time. I found my little Ballerina at the puppet shop. I love it. 

packed up and rechecked drawers and things

asleep at 1130ish.

28 Jun - the Louvre and More

Margie and I took the Batobus to the louvre stop. On the way we passed the "underpass/tunnel" that we tried to use earlier in the week and it brought back such memories. We exited the batobus safely and headed up towards the Louvre.

We had just enough time to grab a quick lunch, for me a very tasty eggplant and tomato torte from the Paul's kiosk in Toulliers park on the way to the Louvre. For Margie I don't remember, same kiosk. It was a ham and cheese of some sort.

We met Maureen at noon right on time in the covered entry. We zipped inside  and after getting our bearings we headed up 

inside to of the  Richelieu wing of the museum to the section called "Napoleon's Apartments".   which are amazingly over the top.

I loved these chairs. Margie really did too but where would you put them?
Wiki says "The Musée du Louvre —in English, the Louvre Museum or simply The Louvre—is one of the world's largest museums, and a historic monument. A central landmark of Paris, France, it is located on the right bank of the Seine river in the 1st arrondissement(district).   





                                                                            

Nearly 35,000 objects from prehistory to the 19th century are exhibited over an area of 60,600 square metres (652,300 square feet). With more than 8 million visitors each year, the Louvre is the world's most visited museum. (and we knew it to be true by the number of people that were there when we were there.)

The museum is housed in the Louvre Palace (Palais du Louvre) which began as a fortress built in the late 12th century under Philip II. Remnants of the fortress are visible in the basement of the museum. 

The building was extended many times to form the present Louvre Palace. In 1682, Louis XIV chose the Palace of Versailles for his household, leaving the Louvre primarily as a place to display the royal collection, including, from 1692, a collection of antique sculpture. 

( we noticed some paisley pigs in some of the rooms and discovered that there was an art show in some of the apartments that had nothing to do with Napoleon but was just there. There was odd art which seemed completely out of place and there was art which we were not sure if it was part of the show ar part of the apartments.)

In 1692, the building was occupied by the Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres and the Académie Royale de Peinture et de Sculpture, which in 1699 held the first of a series of salons. The Académie remained at the Louvre for 100 years. During the French Revolution, the National Assembly  decreed that the Louvre should be used as a museum, to display the nation's masterpieces. 

The museum opened on 10 August 1793 with an exhibition of 537 paintings, the majority of the works being royal and confiscated church property. Because of structural problems with the building, the museum was closed in 1796 until 1801.

 The size of the collection increased under Napoleon and the museum was renamed the Musée Napoléon. After the defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo, many works seized by his armies were returned to their original owners. 
The collection was further increased during the reigns of Louis XVII and Charles X, and during the Second French Empire the museum gained 20,000 pieces. Holdings have grown steadily through donations and gifts since the Third Republic.  

As of 2008, the collection is divided among eight curatorial departments: Egyptian Antiquities; Near Eastern Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities; Islamic Art; Sculpture; Decorative Arts; Paintings; Prints and Drawings." 

Found the impressionists at the other end of the Louvre and my favorite painting. There was a large bench in front of it full of people. It was larger than I thought it would be and I loved it.  Renoir. Did not take a photo as there were so many people.

Went back through the tapestry rooms again and Margie did not touch them. wandered through the sections that we had not seen yet. There were many.
we saw a great statue of three lovley nude ladies and I said that was us. and it was I am sure just not at the age that we were at , at that moment, but in our youth.

We stayed at the louvre till 4 and our brains were definitely mush by the time we left. 

It was very hot out. the louvre had been air-conditioned and so we did not realize how hot it was. We wandered through the touliers, in the shadse as much as possible, to the batobus stop, past the arc de triumphe stop and got off at the Eiffle Tower. Checked out the dinner cruises for that night but they were booked and we did not have the right dress anyway. Dress code? Basically no runners.

We decided to get Dinner boat tickets for friday night at 630, they said they had a vegetarian menu. We had to pay to hold our reservations so there would be no missing it and we might have to leave Versailles a little early.

We caught the Batobus to the Notre Dame stop.

It was 32 degrees, and with 87 percent humidity it should have been raining but it was sunny and clear.

I tried to Check out the RER schedule for Versaille on friday but could not figure it out.

We grabbed a bite to eat  just off the square in front of Notre Dame. after that refreshing pause we went to St Chapelle for a Bach concert. The last concert we went to there was so good, we were looking forward to it very much. 

We got in and took off our shoes and the cool tile floor felt so good.

 Now you have to understand that I loved Bach, but I had known many people, including musicians, who did not like Bach and I could not figure out why. Now I know. 

This concert was bad Bach, probably executed brilliantly and right on key and probably perfect, but it was terrible for the lay person like myself and Margie and Maureen to listen to. One fellow (from the previous night's ensemble ) playing his violin. This concert was very different from the one the last time we were here. The Brandenburg concerto is my favorite Bach, but I have to admit that, after this concert,  I am not  the fan of Bach that I used to be. Now I am not so sure I want to take up the violin after all!

After the concert Margie and I Checked out another RER station and could not figure out that schedule either. Maybe the bad Bach or too much art had befuddled our brains. We would try again tomorrow morning. 
On the way back home we saw more musicians and people on the bridge. It was a very busy pedestrian night since the temperatures were now very pleasant. 

 we stopped for an ice cream, vanilla for me, choc 2 flavours for Maureen, mint choc-chip for Margie. we browsed and shopped our way home. there were still quite a few shops open 

Margie needed batteries so the next morning I would endeavor to find some early and we were asleep by 1030.

28 Jun, The Cluny, Museum of the Moyen Ages

Margie and I woke early went to find the Cluny Museum, the Museum of the middle ages. With map in hand we really did look like tourists which of course we were. The sun was shining when we passed over from the Ile Louis to Il de la Cite and Notre Dame was lovely in the morning light. On the right bank we went into the Latin Quarter,  up the Rue de Germaine and one kind gentleman, whose english was pretty good,  stopped and pointed us in the right direction when we were stopped at a corner looking at our map, obviously looking a little confused. we had a little bite of breakfast and continued on.

We found the Sorbonne university. Wikipedia says The historic University of Paris first appeared in the second half of the 12th century, but was reorganised in 1970 as 13 autonomous universities after the student protests of the French May. I found out that students like Marie Curie,  Charles Boyer,  Princess Caroline of Monaco used to go there. A long time ago, back in the12 th century, students used to sit around on hay during lectures so as not to get their clothes dirty but it had improved greatly since then. It was the university of Europe at one time.

A few blocks away we found a small park named after a famous mathematician, Paul Painleve, who was born in Paris, 5 dec 1863. He was educated at the university of Paris where he received his doctorate in mathematics in 1887, awarded the grand prix des sciences mathemateques, in 1890 became a  proffessor at the Sorbonne and was also a very political man becoming prime minister in  but only for 2 years. the park had some interesting plants and a cool statue of Romulus and Remus and we saw a young guy sleeping in the park.

This park was right beside the Cluny museum. We walked around the building and waited for it to open at a little garden in back of the building that was fenced off so we could not get in, but there were flowers to enjoy and a french bird of some sort, kind of like a brown robin.  When I looked it up I found that it was a female blackbird. My first sighting.... how exciting! Later I also found out that the fenced garden was the Medievil Garden.

At 9 we went around to the great front door; all carved wood and pink shells (the scallop-shells on the façade symbolize the great camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, which once began just around the corner and was overseen by the Abbey of Cluny, and I was on that Pilgrimage!) and carved stone dragons surrounding it, very cool, very old, and waited for the museum to open. We thought that it would open at nine but it did not. 9:15

Wikipedia says The structure is perhaps the most outstanding example still extant of civic architecture in medieval Paris. It was formerly the town house (hotel) of the abbots of Cluny, started in 1334. The structure was rebuilt by Jacques d'Amboise, abbot in commendam of Cluny 1485-1510 and it combines Gothic and  Renaissance elements. In 1843 it was made into a public museum, to contain relics of France's Gothic past preserved in the building by Alexandre du Sommerord. 

Though it no longer possesses anything originally connected with the abbey of Cluny, the hôtel was at first part of a larger Cluniac complex that also included a building (no longer standing) for a religious college in the Place de la Sorbonne, just south of the present day Hôtel de Cluny along Boulevard Saint-Michel. Although originally intended for the use of the Cluny abbots, the residence was taken over by Jacques d'Ambroise, Bishop of Clermont and Abbot of Jumieges, and rebuilt to its present form in the period of 1485-1500. 

 We were in at 915 and taking pictures outside and in. There was not a long lineup and we were at the front of the line so it did not matter.

Our Paris pass got us in for free but we had to pay for the audio tour thingy which as it turned out was rather confusing as the room number did not correspond to the number that we were to push and initially we saw no numbers that would correspond to our guide.  We did figure it out in the by the second room and it was tres interesting and well worth the price. 

Occupants of the house over the years have included Mary Tudor, the sister of Henry VIII of England. She was installed here after the death of her husband Louis XII by his successor Francis I of France in 1515; Francis wished to monitor Mary closely, particularly to see if she was pregnant. Seventeenth-century occupants included several papal nuncios, including Mazarin. 

Later, it was used as an observatory by the astronomer  Charles Messier,  (being a over of astronomy I found this is to be very cool) who in 1771 published his observations in the landmark Messier Catalog. In 1793 it (the hotel not the catalogue ) was confiscated by the state, and for the next three decades served several functions. At one point it was owned by a physician who used the magnificent Flamboyant chapel on the first floor as a dissection room ( I cannot even imagine that as the small chapel is beautiful ).

In 1833 Alexandre du Sommerard moved here and installed his large collection of medieval and Renaissance objects. Upon his death in 1842 the collection was purchased by the state; the building was opened as a museum in 1843, with du Sommerard's son serving as the first curator. The present gardens, opened in 1971, include a "Forêt de la Licorne" inspired by the tapestries.

The Hôtel de Cluny is partially constructed on the remains of Gallo-Roman baths (very cool and interesting and large) dating from the third century (known as the Thermes de Cluny), which are famous in their own right and which may still be visited. In fact, the museum itself actually consists of two buildings: the frigidarium ("cooling room"), where the remains of the Thermes de Cluny are, and the Hôtel de Cluny itself, which houses its impressive collections. This roman bath was the last roman bath in paris.

The first part of the museum was the Museum Shop, then the Tapestry of St. Peter (15c), Altarpiece of the Passion (16c), sculptures (14-15c); Coptic textiles (4-6c), Quadriga from Aachen (8c), Manorial Life tapestry (16c), Alabaster plaques from Nottingham (15c), 

The Stained glass from the 12th and 13th centuries was amazing with bright bold colours, not the faded colours that we saw at the monasteries of Mont St Michelle. They were found buried and so were protected from the sunlight and were preserved in thier original state. Absolutely vibrant.  
then the Gate of Pierre de Montreuil (13c), tombstones (13-14c), Sculptures from Notre Dame Cathedral (12-13c), Frigidarium of Roman Baths (1-3c). Boatmen's Pillar (1c), Saint-Landry's Pillar (2c).
 The roman bath area was filled with statues and columns
 The Romanesque Room held Capitals from Saint-Germain-des Pres (11c), ivories (4-12c), statue heads from Saint-Denis (12c), 

There are some heads of statues, found during an excavation in Saint -denis in 1977, on display of the 28 kings of Judah and Israel. It seems that during the French Revolution, the revolutionaries mistakenly believed the statues  of the 28 kings lining the front of the Notre-Dame cathedral were French kings instead of biblical kings, so they decapitated them. (Notre dame has since replaced the broken kings and they look great having seen them myself)

We wandered from room to room enjoying the artifacts and articles displayed and  friezes and tapestries on walls, each with their own story and each very interesting. We saw ancient kings and queens sarcophagi  and marveled at the work involved. How long would it have taken them to carve the coffins. Would they have had to start before the kings and queens were even were showing ill health? Mysteries abound in my mind.

There was a school tour that came through, maybe even two, I am not sure, but suddenly our peace and quiet was gone and then as they moved on it was back again.  The museum uses all of its space very well covering walls in halls and nooks and crannies with relics and such. Most of the articles displayed were brought in from other sites, discovered during excavations for new buildings and such. we saw large wooden Christs from crucifixes (12c), Virgin and St. John from Prato (13c).
 In the Gothic Room. Apostles from Sainte-Chapelle (13c), capitals from Catalonia (12c),  the carved columns with roman gods on each side. Some showing unknown gods dating from  pre roman times. 

Quite a few of the items we saw were religious and beautifully preserved. Why is it that so much of the medieval art is religious you ask. The church was often times the only patron for the artists and it controlled so much of daily life back then, in Europe anyway.  The churches and the royalty had the money to pay for the work and so we now have religious and royal art.

We saw sculptures from Poissy (13c). We saw Tapestries (16c), chests, caskets, shoes, pilgrim badges, toys, etc. and that was only on the ground floor. 




On the first floor was the reason we had come to the Cluny.

This photo of Musee National du Moyen Age-Thermes et Hotel de Cluny is courtesy of TripAdvisor website 
 The Cluny Mueum says "the most famous attraction of the Musée de Cluny is the Lady and the Unicorn (Dame à la Licorne) tapestry, the most acclaimed tapestry of its kind. The six charming scenes, which cover the walls of an entire room, bring to life the romance of the age of chivalry. The tapestry was designed by French artists and woven in 1485-1500 in Flanders. It was discovered in 1841 by Prosper Merimee in Boussac Castle and aquired by the museum in 1882.

Each of the six scenes includes a beautiful lady, a unicorn, and a lion. The animals wear heraldry that identifies the sponsor of the work as Jean Le Viste, a powerful nobleman close to King Charles VII (1422-61). The backgrounds are filled with woodland creatures, plants and flowers, creating an enchanted landscape.

Five of the scenes illustrate the five senses: sight, touch, taste, smell and sound. The sixth scene, which belongs either at the beginning or the end of the series, is especially beautiful and intriguing. It is labeled with a banner reading, "To my only desire," and shows the lady placing a necklace in a case held by a servant.
I love the Unicorn Tapestries! Magnificent!

We saw Antwerp altarpieces (16c), altar frontal of life of the Virgin (14c), Pieta of Tarascon (15c), tapestry of the Prodigal Son (16c). Scriptorium and brassware. 

A 7th century Visigoth collection made up of three crowns, two crosses, links and gold pendants.Wiki says" a larger collection was originally offered to the catholic church by the visigoths in the 7th century but the monastery of Sancta Maria in Sorbaces of Guarrazar served as a hideout for the real treasure of the court, Toledo churches and monasteries to prevent their capture by the Muslims' invasion of Spain.In August 1858 storms uncovered a series of tombs at the site of the gardens of Guarrazar in Guadamur, very close to Toledo Spain. These remains were found by neighbours Francisco Morales and María Pérez. The treasure, which represents the high point of Visigothic goldsmith's work, was dug between 1858 and 1861. The treasure was divided, with some objects going to the Musee de Cluny and the rest to the armouries of the Palacio Real in Madrid in (today in the National Archaeological Museum of Spain). Subsequently most of the Treasure of Guarrazar was stolen and has disappeared.

A solid golden rose from the 14th century that according to Wiki "The custom, started when the popes moved to Avignon, of conferring the rose upon the most deserving prince at the papal court, continued after the papacy moved back to Rome. The prince would receive the rose from the pope in a solemn ceremony and be accompanied by the College of Cardinals from the papal palace to his residence. From the beginning of the seventeenth century, the rose was sent only to queens, princesses and eminent noblemen. Emperors, kings and princes were given a blessed sword and hat as a more suitable gift. However, if a deserving Catholic emperor, king or other great prince was present in Rome on Lætare Sunday, he would be presented with the rose.

 Limoges enamels (12-13c), Sainte-Chapelle reliquary (13c). Sainted glass (14-15c), ivories (14-15c), Hispano-Moresque lustreware (15c). 
 A wooden statue of jesus on a donkey with what was probably the first halo ever on Jesus. We just called him that guy on the donkey. we were starting to get punchy.

Choir stalls with misericords from Beauvais (15c), the Dictionary says"  A bracket attached to the underside of a hinged seat in a church stall against which a standing person may lean. Also called miserere. Carved with everyday happenings everything from churning butter to beating your wife to having sex. ? In church? Marvelous.  More tapestries and folding tables, statues, jewelry and art. brains going mushy for sure.

 A beautiful Book of Hours  from the 12th and 13th centuries. Wiki says "The book of hours was developed for lay people who wished to incorporate elements of monasticism into their devotional life and for Inspirational practice,  a person might read or recite from the prayers or excerpts from Psalms.  Tens of thousands of books of hours survive to the present day. Indeed, most of the extant medieval illuminated manuscripts are books of hours, although many of these have minimal decoration, and no illustrations at all. Some of the books made for wealthy patrons, however, were extremely lavish, boasting brightly coloured, full-page miniatures." I am thinking that only wealthy people could afford any book.

We saw more exquisite tapestries and wooden statues. We even had a laugh or two about some of the things we saw. Our brains were definitely gone to mush. 

 A quick stop at the medieval museum gift shop to pick up postcards, pens, an umbrella souvenir for Margie. I love my umbrella. and some postcards/bookmarks etc.

We did not get to see museum's medieval garden from inside the fence, which was inspired by the Lady and the Unicorn tapestry  It covers 5000 square meters and includes medicinal plants, a "kitchen garden" of herbs, and a section with a "thousand flowers" (mille fleurs). We just didn't have time and I think it was closed anyway. yet another reason to come back to Paris. Yes it was behind closed gates and we could not get in!
We happily headed off to the batobus to meet Maureen at noon at the Louvre .